Like its neighbour the anchor line and the nearby corinthian, urban bar and brasserie inhabits a handsome old building that speaks of glasgow’s rich merchant past in the shape of the bank of england’s former scottish hq. behind an impressive looking pillared entrance, the sense of grandness is maintained in polished wood floors, leather banquettes and a marble-topped bar, and helped by waiting staff dressed in white shirts, black waistcoats and ties. the pan-european menu is a little more down to earth than all of that suggests, however – it’s more family birthday dinner than high-power business meeting. a stornoway black pudding starter looks colourful and impressive served on a broad glass plate, and tastes better still with the runny yoke of a poached duck egg running through a red chard salad punctuated by chewy pancetta lardons. the sirloin of buccleuch beef is traditionally matured and dry aged for 28 days and full of flavour, even if the very tart garlic and herb butter doesn’t do it the greatest justice. rich jamaican gingerbread with vanilla ice-cream and butterscotch is a satisfying splurge of stickiness, smoothness, sugar and spice.